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The Danish (and Norwegian) Church, Wellclose Square

A CHURCH FOR DANISH AND NORWEGIAN SETTLERS


danishchurchAlthough now usually referred to as 'the Danish Church', Norwegians who had settled in the area were also involved in its foundation, worship and finance. The timber trade received an impetus from the rebuilding of the City after 1666: it was said Norwegians warmed themselves comfortably by the Fire of London. Church regulations were drawn up in 1691, and the 1694 letters patent, granting a licence to build a church in Marine [now Wellclose] Square were issued to two Norwegian merchants, Martin Lionfeld and Theora Wegerslofle; Lionfeld was appointed superintendent of the project and treasurer of the funds. A 999-year lease, at £5 per year, was obtained from Sir Michael Heneage [hence Heneage Street] and others. 

The Danish ambassador laid the first stone in 1694. Until the church was completed the congregation met in Old Gravel Lane, Wapping. It was consecrated in 1696. King Christian V of Denmark [Christian Street, off Cable Street, is named after him] contributed £2000, plus an annual sum for its upkeep - supplemented by annual collections in Denmark and Norway for the minister and the relief of the poor, and levies on Danish shipments. Over the entrance was the inscription Templem Dano Norwegicum intercessione et munificento serenissimi Danorum Regis Christiani Quinti erectum - MDCXCVI. 

danishchurchinteriorThe architect was Caius Gabriel Cibber (1630-1700), a Danish sculptor who had settled in England and found favour with William III. His Bethlem Hospital statues Raving Madness and Melancholy can now be seen in the Guildhall Museum; he also designed the bas-reliefs on the plinth of the Monument.

Millicent Rose, in The East End of London (1951), says He was one of the most accomplished, most European artists working in Stuart England; sculptures by his hand are part of the the fabulous riches of Chatsworth, and Wren welcomed him as collaborator, employing him to make the skyline figures for Trinity College Library, Cambridge, and also to take part in the decoration of St. Paul's and Hampton Court. The influence of Wren is obvious in the Danes' Church; the grouping of round and round-headed windows, the decorative swags of carved stone, the little campanile, all recall elements from the City churches. The most obvious affinity is with St Benet's, Paul's Wharf, a comparison which also emphasizes the difference between the two churches. St Benet's, with its small roofs, lacks the cosmopolitan unity of its eastern contemporary; it was not Wren's custom, in a building of this size, to hide the roof behind a parapet. Cibber's little church has a personality of its own, and though its creator had been in England nearly half a century, he speaks his English with a slightly foreign intonation (p21).

[Interior: engraving by Kip, 1697]

Cibber took over the design of the church from Thomas Woodstock, and gave his services free. He was, said one commentator, a gentlemanlike man and a man of good sense but died poor.

charityAs well as designing the church, he created external and internal sculptures. Outside, on the west front, were figures (in lead) of Faith, Hope and Charity. Charity [pictured] is now in the Carlsberg Ny Glytothek, an art museum in Copenhagen. Inside, there was an elaborately carved pulpit; at its side was an iron and gilt box containing four hour glasses. For the reredos, he carved four baroque figures in wood: Moses, John the Baptist, St Peter and St Paul. When the church was demolished, these figures were transferred to the Danish Seamen's Mission Church in Ming Street [formerly King Street] E14, reconstructed in 1906 and restored and brightly redecorated in 1948 after war damage by Caröe & Partners, an architectural firm of Danish origin. They were said to look odd in this typically Scandinavian setting; but this church in turn was demolished in the 1970s. Where are the sculptures now?

Over the altar was a painting of the angel strengthening Christ in Gethsemane. There were two west-end galleries and a decent organ.  One commentator remarked that it was a commodious and elegant structure, and though the architect appears to have understood ornaments, he has not been too lavish in the use of them.

Cibber's son (by his second wife Jane Colley) was the extrovert dandy Colley Cibber (1671-1757), an actor-dramatist who became Poet Laureate, and
whose Apology of 1740 is a mine of information about the theatre of this period. He was interred and memorialised in Westminster Abbey.  However, the Revd Dan Greatorex, first Vicar of St Paul's, in a private note of 1883, claimed that his father and mother were buried in the vault beneath the Danish Church and that when it was demolished in 1869 their coffins were removed into the crypt and there bricked up, under what is now St Paul's School. This remains the subject of conjecture. There was apparently a marble monument to Jane, but it was lost. 

Other monuments were to Christian Wegersloff and his three wives; Anna Penelope, wife of Captain Falkener; Ambrosia, widow of  Pastor Borneman; John Collett; Herman Pohlman; Claude Heide;  George Wolff, Danish consul (died 1828 aged 92) and his wives and relative Ernst Fridrick (an elder of the church who published a book about the church in Copenhagen in 1802); and Peter Alsing, the last churchwarden.

In 1768 the young King of Denmark payed an extended visit to London, travelling incognito under the name of the Prince of Travandahl, and watched closely by the press. He attended worship at the church one Sunday, attended by 'several of the nobility', and sat in the royal pew, enclosed by sash windows.

According to James Southerden Burn, The History of the French, Walloon, Dutch and Other Foreign Protestant Refugees &c (1846) [p241], all the church records were burned at the end of the 18th century after 'difficulties', leaving only one register, covering the period 1802-16. This recorded many communicants on prisoner of war ships, including the Irresistible and Bahama at Chatham (1809-10), the Brave at Plymouth (1811), the Buckingham, Nassau, Fryen and others. Burn also gives a list of ministers who served the church:

Iver Brink (1690-1702)

Jorgen Ursin
Philip Julius Borneman FRS
Soren Poulsen  (1725-48, died in office)
? Michelsen  (17??-70, died in office)
Hans Christian Roede (1771-74)
Hans Hammond (1775-??)
Andreas Charles Kierulff (????-1816)

branderAt some stage, the church appears to have been struck by lightning. Gustavus Brander FRS FAS (1720-87) [right - painting by Nathaniel Dance], a Swedish naturalist and dilettante, reported to the Royal Society on its effects (Phil. Trans. XLIV. 298). Brander was a curator of the British Museum and a Director of the Bank of England; inheriting his uncle's fortune, he spent his latter years collecting (including the elaborate coronation chair of the German emperors) and landscaping his Hampshire garden. He gave a significant collection of Hampshire fossils (with notes by Dr Solander) to the British Museum. He also published notes on The Form of Cury [sic], a Roll of Ancient English Cookery.

After the congregation disbanded, the Norwegian government transferred its annual subsidy of £100 to the SWEDISH CHURCH in Prince's Square, to which some Norwegian members transferred.


A CHURCH FOR SEAFARERS

bosunsmithWhen the Danish congregation left the church, it was used by a variety of non-denominational seafarers' missions, such as the Bethel Flag Union and other temperance organisations. It was bought in 1824 by George Charles (Bo'sun) Smith, a Baptist. He referred to the area as 'Satan's Sailortown Seat', and a couple of years earlier had opened a Seaman's Chapel and Sea-boys' School at 42 Lower East Smithfield. Roald Kverndal's Seamen's Missions: Their Origin and Early Growth (1986) gives more details about Smith; and see his Prose and Poetical Works (1824). His vision was:

The Headquarters would be the great rendezvous of the lost and guilty, where the officers of the Captain of Salvation may, under his orders, invite, persuade and impress those poor wretched wanderers who pass by, and graciously compel them to enter the receiving ship of his church universal, from whence they may be drafted to the several cruisers in the glorious service of his Celestial Majesty and in which, according to telegraphic orders, they may war a good warfare against the Lord's enemies and theirs.

But over the years Bo'sun Smith fell out with his committee, who moved to a disused sugar warehouse in the Ratcliff Highway in 1845 without him.

In 1827 this use of the church provoked 'E.I.C.' to write to the Gentleman's Magazine in these terms:

In the area of Wellclose-square, is a Church which was built for the King of Denmark, by Caius Gabriel Gibber, the well-known sculptor of the maniacs formerly in Moor-fields. Its obscure situation renders it but little noticed at this day, or I feel certain it would not have fallen into the disgrace which it at present has.

Your readers will, I am sure, be equally surprised with myself, at hearing that this edifice is converted into a meeting-house for a society of enthusiasts calling themselves the Bethel Union, and they will be the more grieved when they read the description of the edifice. The exterior shows merely a plain brick building, with a small steeple at the west end. The west front is adorned with statues of the Christian virtues. Charity, with its accompanying infants, is placed upon the cornice of the doorway [pictured].

Faith and Hope occupying niches at the sides of it. There are two Latin inscriptions on this part, setting forth the erection and dedication of the building. The interior, however, is very pleasing; its decorations and ornaments are in the best taste of the seventeenth century, and are executed in a style of elegance and profusion not surpassed by any building of the kind in the metropolis. It resembles the primitive Churches in having a circular tribune at the east end, behind the altar screen, leaving a vacancy above it, which has a far better appearance than where it is placed against a wall. It is a fine composition of the Corinthian order, and beautifully carved ; in the centre is a large painting, representing the agony in the Garden. On each side of this, upon pedestals, are full-length statues the size of life, of our Saviour and Moses, and on the cornice St. Peter and St. Paul, of smaller proportions. The table is supported by elegant open work in brass, and is covered with crimson velvet. At the west end are two galleries richly carved. In the upper is the case of an organ, the instrument having been removed. The pulpit, which is situated against the north wall, is polygonal, each face being embellished with a carving in relief from the history of our Lord. Opposite to it is a large pew, glazed and finished with a canopied roof, once appropriated to Royalty. The ceiling is richly worked in stucco, the centre rising into an elegant dome. A stone font stands in a pew near the altar. The royal arms of Denmark, and the cypher of the founder (Christian), is seen in several parts of the edifice. Upon the whole, a degree of richness and splendour are visible throughout the building, met with in few modern Churches.

londonmarinerschurchWhen I advert to the present appropriation of the edifice, I feel certain your readers will participate with me in the feelings of indignation which arose when I witnessed its degradation. The altar-table serves as a depository for hats, and the statues of our Saviour and Moses are rendered ridiculous by having blue flags stuck into their hands, inscribed with the word "Bethel,'' like those carried by benefit societies, and at other processions of a similar stamp. A model of a ship is suspended from the western galleries, and on the outside of the Church a mast with shrouds and tacking is stuck upon the roof. It would be needless to add more upon the conduct of a party which could offer so great an indignity to the statue of our Saviour as that I have just noticed, nor will it be necessary for any feelings of execration against such conduct; the bare recital of the facts themselves are sufficient. After the service, as it is called, had ended, and the congregation had deposited their offerings in the shape of pence and halfpence, in certain tin boxes, which though less musical, as effectually proclaimed the pharasaical mode of alms-giving, as a trumpet would have done, some men with riddles and clarionets struck up a tune, in which they were vocally accompanied by several others, with voices so devoid of grace and harmony, that I was only restrained from a laugh by the consideration that the building had once been sacred, and the feelings of indignation which arose from witnessing its present state.

Is the Danish Ambassador cognisant of the appropriation of the building? I can scarce believe that the King of Denmark would ever have suffered a Chapel built by one of his predecessors on the throne to be thus degraded. If Royalty, however, should display an unworthy apathy on the occasion, those great bodies, the Commissioners for building new Churches, and the Society for the same purpose, are neither dead nor asleep, and I cannot suppose that either would have suffered the building to have fallen into its present use, when it might have been converted into a Chapel of the Establishment, so much wanted in the neighbourhood, if they had been aware of the change before it took place. It is not, however, too late to redeem the structure. Let me then, Mr. Urban, call upon the two bodies I have named, and earnestly entreat the members of them, if they feel any regard for the honour of the Established Church, if they are actuated by those feelings which ought to guide them in the performance of their high duties, to lose no time in purchasing the structure, and restoring to it a sound form of worship, and to its altar and font their respective sacraments. Let the scriptural liturgy and the episcopally ordained Clergyman supersede the low-lived stories and the coarse vulgarity of the boatswain's mate. If this appeal, however, is received with apathy, and treated with contempt, join with me, in calling upon the liberality of your friends to raise a private subscription for this laudable purpose. I earnestly beg your insertion or this, and let me hope, for the honour of the Church, that it will not be disregarded.

For the final, and very different, stage in this building's history, see ST SAVIOUR & ST CROSS CHAPELWhen the Rector Bryan King tried to have a district assigned to this church for the Mission, the minister of St Paul Dock Street, Dan Greatorex (who was a firm Protestant), objected, and stirred up other local clergy, including Thomas Richardson at ST MATTHEW PELL STREET, to protest about the spread of 'Puseyism' in Stepney. The Bishop settled the dispute by having a district assigned to St Paul's in 1864. (It had not previously had parish boundaries because it was the 'Church for Seamen of the Port of London'). Since the Mission fell into this district, Greatorex closed it, and bought the building for £2,000, intending to convert it into a school. So all the Mission's activities transferred to Wapping.

In the event, when Greatorex' architect brother Reuben surveyed it, the walls were found to be out of true, the south wall by 7½" and the north wall by 9". Rhode Hawkins' second opinion concurred, so it was demolished in 1869. The fine fittings were sold by auction: the font fetched £5 5s, the Royal Arms and altar-piece £35, and the pulpit with its tester and carved figures £24. The organ keyboard was moved to St Paul's church - it later disappeared. A new school, designed by Reuben, was built on the site in 1870 and opened by the Prince of Wales. Its story is recorded in St Paul's School 1870-1995 (produced by The Sunday Times), on THIS page and on the school website.

For a 1934 account of Wellclose Square and some of its inhabitants, click here.

For a recent article by the English correspondent of the Danish national press, who lives in the parish, click HERE (if you read Danish!)


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