The
Danish (and Norwegian) Church, Wellclose Square
A CHURCH FOR DANISH AND NORWEGIAN SETTLERS
Although
now usually referred to as 'the Danish Church', Norwegians who had
settled in the area were also
involved in its foundation, worship and finance. The timber trade
received an impetus from the rebuilding of the City after 1666: it was
said Norwegians warmed themselves comfortably by the Fire of London. Church regulations
were drawn up in 1691, and the 1694 letters patent, granting a licence
to build a church in Marine [now Wellclose] Square were issued to two
Norwegian merchants, Martin Lionfeld and Theora
Wegerslofle; Lionfeld was appointed superintendent of the project and
treasurer of the funds. A 999-year lease, at £5 per year, was obtained
from Sir Michael Heneage [hence Heneage Street] and others.
The Danish ambassador laid the first stone in 1694. Until the church was completed the congregation met in Old Gravel Lane, Wapping. It was consecrated in 1696. King Christian V of Denmark [Christian Street, off Cable Street, is named after him] contributed £2000, plus an annual sum for its upkeep - supplemented by annual collections in Denmark and Norway for the minister and the relief of the poor, and levies on Danish shipments. Over the entrance was the inscription Templem Dano Norwegicum intercessione et munificento serenissimi Danorum Regis Christiani Quinti erectum - MDCXCVI.
The
architect was Caius
Gabriel Cibber (1630-1700), a Danish
sculptor who had settled in England and found favour with William
III. His Bethlem Hospital statues Raving
Madness and
Melancholy
can
now be seen in the Guildhall Museum; he also
designed the bas-reliefs on the plinth of the Monument.
Millicent Rose, in The East End of London (1951), says He was one of the most accomplished, most European
artists working in Stuart England; sculptures by his hand are part of
the the fabulous riches of Chatsworth, and Wren welcomed him as
collaborator, employing him to make the skyline figures for Trinity
College Library, Cambridge, and also to take part in the decoration of
St. Paul's and Hampton Court. The influence of Wren is obvious in the
Danes' Church; the grouping of round and round-headed windows, the
decorative swags of carved stone, the little campanile, all recall
elements from the City churches. The most obvious affinity is with St
Benet's, Paul's Wharf, a comparison which also emphasizes the
difference between the two churches. St Benet's, with its small roofs,
lacks the cosmopolitan unity of its eastern contemporary; it was not
Wren's custom, in a building of this size, to hide the roof behind a
parapet. Cibber's little church has a personality of its own, and
though its creator had been in England nearly half a century, he speaks
his English with a slightly foreign intonation (p21).
[Interior: engraving by Kip, 1697]
Cibber took over the design of the church from Thomas Woodstock, and gave his services free. He was, said one commentator, a gentlemanlike man and a man of good sense but died poor.
As
well as designing the church, he created external and internal
sculptures. Outside, on the west front, were figures (in lead) of
Faith, Hope and Charity. Charity [pictured] is now in the Carlsberg Ny Glytothek,
an art museum in Copenhagen. Inside, there was an elaborately carved
pulpit; at its side was an iron and gilt box containing four hour
glasses. For the reredos, he carved four
baroque figures in wood: Moses, John the Baptist, St Peter and St Paul. When the church was demolished,
these figures were transferred to the Danish Seamen's Mission Church in
Ming Street [formerly King Street] E14, reconstructed in 1906 and
restored and brightly redecorated in 1948 after war damage by Caröe
& Partners, an architectural firm of Danish origin. They were said
to look odd in this typically Scandinavian setting; but this church in
turn was demolished in the 1970s. Where are the sculptures now?
Over the altar was a
painting of the angel strengthening Christ in Gethsemane. There were two west-end
galleries and a decent organ. One commentator remarked
that
it was a
commodious and
elegant structure, and though the architect appears to have
understood ornaments, he has not been too lavish in the use of them.
Cibber's
son (by his second wife Jane Colley) was the extrovert dandy Colley
Cibber (1671-1757), an
actor-dramatist who became Poet Laureate, and whose Apology
of 1740 is a mine of information about the theatre of this period.
He was interred
and
memorialised in Westminster Abbey. However, the Revd Dan
Greatorex, first Vicar of St Paul's, in a private note of 1883, claimed
that
his father and mother were buried in the vault beneath the Danish
Church and that when it was demolished in 1869 their coffins were
removed into the crypt and there bricked up, under what is now St
Paul's School. This remains the subject of conjecture. There was
apparently a marble monument to Jane, but it was lost.
Other monuments were to Christian Wegersloff and his three wives; Anna Penelope, wife of Captain Falkener; Ambrosia, widow of Pastor Borneman; John Collett; Herman Pohlman; Claude Heide; George Wolff, Danish consul (died 1828 aged 92) and his wives and relative Ernst Fridrick (an elder of the church who published a book about the church in Copenhagen in 1802); and Peter Alsing, the last churchwarden.
In 1768 the
young King of Denmark payed an extended visit to London, travelling incognito
under the name of the Prince of Travandahl, and watched closely by the
press. He attended worship at the church one Sunday, attended by
'several of the nobility', and sat in the royal pew, enclosed by sash
windows.
According
to James Southerden Burn, The History of
the French, Walloon, Dutch and Other Foreign Protestant Refugees &c
(1846) [p241], all the church records were burned at the end of the
18th
century after 'difficulties', leaving only one register, covering the
period 1802-16. This recorded many communicants on prisoner of war
ships, including the Irresistible
and Bahama at Chatham
(1809-10), the Brave at
Plymouth (1811), the Buckingham,
Nassau, Fryen and others. Burn also gives a
list of ministers who served the church:
|
Iver Brink (1690-1702) Jorgen UrsinPhilip Julius Borneman FRS Soren Poulsen (1725-48, died in office) |
? Michelsen
(17??-70, died in office) Hans Christian Roede (1771-74) Hans Hammond (1775-??) Andreas Charles Kierulff (????-1816) |
At
some stage, the church appears to have been struck by lightning.
Gustavus
Brander FRS FAS (1720-87) [right
- painting by Nathaniel Dance], a Swedish naturalist and
dilettante, reported to the Royal Society on its effects (Phil. Trans. XLIV. 298). Brander
was a curator of the British Museum and a Director of the Bank of
England;
inheriting his uncle's fortune, he spent his latter years collecting
(including the elaborate coronation chair of the German emperors) and
landscaping his Hampshire garden. He gave a significant collection of
Hampshire
fossils (with notes by Dr Solander) to
the British Museum. He also
published notes on The Form of
Cury [sic], a Roll of Ancient
English Cookery. A CHURCH FOR SEAFARERS
When
the Danish congregation left the church, it was used by a variety of
non-denominational seafarers' missions, such as the Bethel Flag Union
and other temperance organisations. It was bought in 1824 by George
Charles (Bo'sun)
Smith,
a Baptist. He referred to the area as 'Satan's Sailortown Seat', and a
couple of years earlier had opened a Seaman's Chapel and Sea-boys'
School at
42 Lower East Smithfield. Roald Kverndal's Seamen's Missions: Their Origin and Early
Growth (1986) gives more details about Smith; and see his Prose and
Poetical Works (1824). His vision was:
The Headquarters would be the great rendezvous of the lost and guilty, where the officers of the Captain of Salvation may, under his orders, invite, persuade and impress those poor wretched wanderers who pass by, and graciously compel them to enter the receiving ship of his church universal, from whence they may be drafted to the several cruisers in the glorious service of his Celestial Majesty and in which, according to telegraphic orders, they may war a good warfare against the Lord's enemies and theirs.
But over the years Bo'sun Smith fell out with his committee, who moved to a disused sugar warehouse in the Ratcliff Highway in 1845 without him.
In
1827 this use of the church provoked 'E.I.C.' to write to the Gentleman's
Magazine in these terms:
|
In the area of Wellclose-square, is a Church which was built for the King of Denmark, by Caius Gabriel Gibber, the well-known sculptor of the maniacs formerly in Moor-fields. Its obscure situation renders it but little noticed at this day, or I feel certain it would not have fallen into the disgrace which it at present has. Your readers will, I am sure, be equally surprised with myself, at hearing that this edifice is converted into a meeting-house for a society of enthusiasts calling themselves the Bethel Union, and they will be the more grieved when they read the description of the edifice. The exterior shows merely a plain brick building, with a small steeple at the west end. The west front is adorned with statues of the Christian virtues. Charity, with its accompanying infants, is placed upon the cornice of the doorway [pictured]. Faith and Hope occupying niches at the sides of it. There are two Latin inscriptions on this part, setting forth the erection and dedication of the building. The interior, however, is very pleasing; its decorations and ornaments are in the best taste of the seventeenth century, and are executed in a style of elegance and profusion not surpassed by any building of the kind in the metropolis. It resembles the primitive Churches in having a circular tribune at the east end, behind the altar screen, leaving a vacancy above it, which has a far better appearance than where it is placed against a wall. It is a fine composition of the Corinthian order, and beautifully carved ; in the centre is a large painting, representing the agony in the Garden. On each side of this, upon pedestals, are full-length statues the size of life, of our Saviour and Moses, and on the cornice St. Peter and St. Paul, of smaller proportions. The table is supported by elegant open work in brass, and is covered with crimson velvet. At the west end are two galleries richly carved. In the upper is the case of an organ, the instrument having been removed. The pulpit, which is situated against the north wall, is polygonal, each face being embellished with a carving in relief from the history of our Lord. Opposite to it is a large pew, glazed and finished with a canopied roof, once appropriated to Royalty. The ceiling is richly worked in stucco, the centre rising into an elegant dome. A stone font stands in a pew near the altar. The royal arms of Denmark, and the cypher of the founder (Christian), is seen in several parts of the edifice. Upon the whole, a degree of richness and splendour are visible throughout the building, met with in few modern Churches.
Is the Danish Ambassador cognisant of the appropriation of the building? I can scarce believe that the King of Denmark would ever have suffered a Chapel built by one of his predecessors on the throne to be thus degraded. If Royalty, however, should display an unworthy apathy on the occasion, those great bodies, the Commissioners for building new Churches, and the Society for the same purpose, are neither dead nor asleep, and I cannot suppose that either would have suffered the building to have fallen into its present use, when it might have been converted into a Chapel of the Establishment, so much wanted in the neighbourhood, if they had been aware of the change before it took place. It is not, however, too late to redeem the structure. Let me then, Mr. Urban, call upon the two bodies I have named, and earnestly entreat the members of them, if they feel any regard for the honour of the Established Church, if they are actuated by those feelings which ought to guide them in the performance of their high duties, to lose no time in purchasing the structure, and restoring to it a sound form of worship, and to its altar and font their respective sacraments. Let the scriptural liturgy and the episcopally ordained Clergyman supersede the low-lived stories and the coarse vulgarity of the boatswain's mate. If this appeal, however, is received with apathy, and treated with contempt, join with me, in calling upon the liberality of your friends to raise a private subscription for this laudable purpose. I earnestly beg your insertion or this, and let me hope, for the honour of the Church, that it will not be disregarded. For the final, and very different, stage in this building's history, see ST SAVIOUR & ST CROSS CHAPEL. When the Rector Bryan King tried to have a district assigned to this church for the Mission, the minister of St Paul Dock Street, Dan Greatorex (who was a firm Protestant), objected, and stirred up other local clergy, including Thomas Richardson at ST MATTHEW PELL STREET, to protest about the spread of 'Puseyism' in Stepney. The Bishop settled the dispute by having a district assigned to St Paul's in 1864. (It had not previously had parish boundaries because it was the 'Church for Seamen of the Port of London'). Since the Mission fell into this district, Greatorex closed it, and bought the building for £2,000, intending to convert it into a school. So all the Mission's activities transferred to Wapping. In the event, when Greatorex' architect brother Reuben surveyed it, the walls were found to be out of true, the south wall by 7½" and the north wall by 9". Rhode Hawkins' second opinion concurred, so it was demolished in 1869. The fine fittings were sold by auction: the font fetched £5 5s, the Royal Arms and altar-piece £35, and the pulpit with its tester and carved figures £24. The organ keyboard was moved to St Paul's church - it later disappeared. A new school, designed by Reuben, was built on the site in 1870 and opened by the Prince of Wales. Its story is recorded in St Paul's School 1870-1995 (produced by The Sunday Times), on THIS page and on the school website. |
For a 1934 account of Wellclose Square and some of its inhabitants, click here.
For a recent article by the English correspondent
of the Danish national press, who lives in the parish,
click HERE
(if you read Danish!)
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