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Just
beyond the Proof-house of the Gunmakers' Company near the Whitechapel
end of the Commercial Road, begins a series of narrow streets running
at right angles to the main thoroughfare, and cutting Fairclough Street
[pictured at junction of Berner Street] at the further extremity, where the Tilbury and Southend Railway passes
through the district [see below]. More or less alike in appearance, these byways,
for they are no more, consist entirely of small two-storeyed tenements
with an occasional stable or cow-shed to break the monotony, and a
sprinkling of little shops devoted to coal and dried fish, stale fruit
and potatoes, pickled cucumbers and salt herrings, shrivelled sausages
and sour brown bread.
   There
is Backchurch Lane [pictured left], where the
Irish
resident still holds his own against the incoming Russo-Jewish settler,
and Berner Street [pictured right], where the
window bills, written in Hebrew
characters. inform you that there are 'loshing' or a 'bek-rum' (back
room) to let, and thus proclaim the nationality of its denizens. There
is Batty Street [doorway at no.14 pictured] wholly given
over to the foreign tailors, clickers and
'machiners'; Christian Street,
long since an appanage of East End
Jewry, and Grove Street, where
the low-pitched tenements are so far
below the pavement level that the passer-by can comfortably shake hands
with the residents off the top floor through the bedroom windows.
And
intersecting all these are a number of courts, alleys, and passages, so
dark and narrow, so dirty and malodorous, that the purlieus of Seven
Dials and the backways of Clare Market may be called light and airy in
comparison with them. Some are blind, others lead through to the
adjoining thoroughfare. Some branch off to right and left, others
conduct one to open spaces forming irregular quadrangles lined with
houses below the street level, so small and snug that the occupier
standing in his front parlour can open the door, stir the fire, reach
the dustbin outside, or make the bed inside without stirring from the
spot. Courts and alleys, streets and yards, all are densely packed, in
many cases even to the cellars below lighted by small gratings in the
pavement. And the whole district, stretching from Backchurch Lane on
one side to Morgan Street on the other, is the resort and principal
abiding-place of the East End Anarchists. In the side streets and
alleys hereabouts the majority of them live and loaf; within a stone's
throw are their favourites haunts, the coffee-shops they patronise, and
the private gambling-clubs where many spend their evenings, and close
by is their printing press, their temporary club and meeting house, and
even the tavern where their Friday evening discussions take place.
The
Club and rallying place of the Russo-Jewish Anarchists in East London
was until lately in Berner Street.
Recent occurrences, however,
rendered this an undesirable locality; it was too well looked after by
the authorities. So it was transferred to a quieter and more obscure
corner, where it was less likely to attract the notice of outsiders;
and it is now by no means easy to find. Near the top of New Road which
opens into Commercial Road, there is a turning known as Charlotte
Street, at one corner of which is an oilmonger's and at the
other a
tobacconist's. Three doors or so from the former is a narrow archway,
bricked over. The roadway beneath is roughly paved, and the kerb is
generally the seat of some half-dozen unkempt and dishevelled gossips
attended by twice as many barefooted children, Passing under the arch
one emerges upon a lane or alley not more than nine to ten feet wide.
There is a row of small tenement houses on one side, a dirty brick wall
and some stables on the other. A few costers' barrows are backed up
against the wall, and the uneven roadway and gutter are invariably
sloppy and sloshy, owing to the grooming of horses always going on, and
the practice the residents have adopted of emptying their waste water
from the upper windows.
At the bottom of this thoroughfare, and of on
the left hand side of it, is a small building, half workshop, half
warehouse, with a steep sloping roof, the gable end facing the road.
The lower part is entirely boarded up, and tightly nailed-to. There is
a large double door on the first floor the entire width of the
building, and only the upper part of this is glazed so that it is
impossible to look in from without. Nor can the edifice be seen from
the streets at the end of the lane in which it stands. There are two
small doors, but without either bell or knocker, handle or latch to
them. A couple of posters are stuck on the doors, one in Hebrew
characters, reading Arbeiter Freund,
the other in English, 'Workers'
Friend', thus announcing this to be the official headquarters of the
East End Anarchist propaganda. Knock, kick or batter at the side entry
any afternoon or evening, and the big door on the upper floor will be
cautiously opened, and you will hear a hoarse Khto tam? - 'Who's
there?' If you are unknown to the speaker, you will be told that no
business is done there. If the questioner above recognises you, or you
come with a friend, a string arrangement will open the side door to the
left, and by means of a wooden staircase you can mount to the upper
floor. Go up any afternoon or evening and you will hear the sound, not
of political argument or Socialist debate, but of cardboard falling
upon wood, and suppressed talk and laughter. The whole of the upper
part forms a large oblong room, hald office, half sitting-room,
with a bench or two, upon which a score of young men and women are
generally to be found seated, smoking and chattering away, while others
are at a small table playing cards. As you enter you may catch one,
watching the game, call out, in unctuous Yiddish, Dos kortel begrubt
ach, 'that card will bury you' - and the card apparently does
settle
the player, for he throws it down with an oath and a muttered
Shwartzmazel, 'bad
luck', and tosses a couple of sixpences over to his
companions. The young men usually present are well fed and dressed,
belonging apparently to a comfortably-off class, and the young women
are altogether comely specimens of 'fair Israel' in East London. But
the visitors here are only new adherents, young converts, They are the
idle drones of the Anarchist hive. The Club is but a rallying-place for
such followers, and a blind for the outside public. For the workers we
must look elsewhere. And these will be found in the smaller circles or
branches which meet on Sundays, in their own appointed places.
One
such branch, comprising a section of the women's organisation, has its
meeting place in the very heart of the Anarchist quarter in the
Commercial Road. Two or three doors from Morgan Street is a narrow
passage by the side of the large public-house in the open thoroughfare.
This is London Terrace, and leads to one of the darkest and most
forbidding of the alleys that abound in the vicinity, There are houses
on one side only, on the other a wall, which effectually prevents any
glimmer of sunlight from reaching the tenements., So bad is the
reputation of the terrace that none but residents would willingly go
through it after dusk, and even those take care to keep their lower
window-shutters close-barred and their doors locked as soon as twilight
sets in. At the further end the wayfarer down there is as far from help
and hearing, if attacked or molested, as though he were a hundred miles
instead of a hundred paces away from one of the busiest thoroughfares
in London. Half-way across the passage we enter an open doorway, and
are ushered down a short flight of stairs by an associate, to whom we
have leters of introduction, then across a yard communicating,
seemingly, with the block of houses facing Umberstone Street only to
find ourselves in an ordinary-aired room filled by two and twenty
persons seated like those attending a spiritualist séance, men and
women ranged alternately around the wall. They are all Jews and
Jewesses, but markedly different from the ordinary stock types
encountered in the East End of London. None of the men are over forty,
and only two of them wear beards - the rest moustaches and
side-whiskers. They are neatly and quietly dressed, and were it not for
their Jewish features, would pass unnoticed in any ordinary assembly of
Englishmen. The women are, all of them taller than the average,
strongly built, and plain-looking, with the heavy features of Russian
Jewesses. They were their own hair - which East End Jewesses generally
cover with a sheitel, or wig - and none of them have wedding rings.
Their expression of face is not prepossessing, for the eye-brows are
unusually bushy, and there is an ominous 'v' fold in the depression
above the nose of several of them. Their peculiar utterance of certain
consonants marks them out as Courlanderinnen, natives of Courland.
In
presence of visitors properly vouched for, the proceedings at the
meetings go on as usual, at least, so it is said. The programme
consists of readings from advanced thinkers, with comments by the
members, recitations of poems calculated to foster the spirit of
Anarchism, and songs having the same tendency. The readings for the day
are from Herbert Spencer, and the criticisms, with the frequent
references to the abolition of marriage as an institution, the
destruction of capital, and the good times coming when their
revolutionary links will 'spew cartridges', are by no means milk for
babes. The poems recited are decidedly strong meat. What do English
readers say to this for a specimen verse or two? The original is, of
course, in Judaeo-German, and it is rendered rough and ready from the
original, the raciness of which however, it is impossible to reproduce:
If
I dig in the mines of the frozen north,
I'll dig with a will: the ore I
bring forth
May yet make a knife - a knife
for the throat of the Tsar.
If I toil in the south, I'll
plough and sow
Good honest hemp; who knows, I
may grow
A rope - a rope for the neck of
the Tsar.
Sarah
Berhardt might envy the fire and verve with which this recitation is
given by one of the Jewesses, and there can be no possible mistake
about the sentiments of the speaker and her auditory, whatever there
may be about the merits of the verses. And the same fiery stuff, or
fiery stuff of the same description, is being spouted about the same
time at half a dozen other branches of the Anarchist League in the
district between Backchurch Lane and the New Road, that runs up to
Whitechapel. Everything is turned to account, tool for the purposes of
its mischievous propaganda. Why, before the meeting is closed one
member produces and sings an Anarchist version of 'After the Ball',
with a finely-buttered moral drawn from the contrast between the
wealthy dancers inside and the shivering poor outside, winding up with
an Anglo-Yiddish chorus in which all join.
Of course, all those
frequenting the Anarchist resorts of East London are not of the same
temper and class as the foregoing. On the other side of the Commercial
Road, in Greenfield Street, and about two doors down, is a small,
squalid-looking shop, with a window on each side, a door in the centre,
and panels painted a dull dirty yellow. The appearance of the whole
place is fly-blown and untidy, from the torn curtains that conceal the
interior to the shabby hangings that decorate the glass door. There are
two rows of brown leather-covered seats running lengthwise inside, some
little tables in front of them, a fly-specked mirror with the gilding
cracked off, and a battered-faced clock against the side wall. Bills in
each of the windows, in Hebrew characters, inform the Yiddish public
and passers-by that 'here can be had coffee', also what they spell and
call tie (tea), and alle ort von refreshments which
every one will
easily construe to mean all kinds of refreshments. This is a
coffee-house much patronised by the great bulk of the poorer East End
Anarchists and Socialists who live in the district, and here some
district classes and types may be seen. One soon learns to distinguish
them - one, that is, who has some knowledge of the foreign settlers and
their dialects, for there are several forms of Yiddish which the
accustomed ear as readily discriminated as an educated Englishman the
brogue of an Irishman from the lingua Cockneyana of the born East
Ender. Here may be noted the restless-eyes Galician, thin and lanky and
flat-chested, his head cropped quite close, and remains of his
ear-ringlets just showing; there the sly and foxy-looking Lithuanian,
whose tongue instantly betrays him, for, like the Ephraimites of old in
Judea, he cannot pronounce the 'sh', and says to this day and hour,
Sibboleth for Shibboleth. There the restless Pole hobnobs with the
muddle-headed German, each styling the other genoss, 'associate', for
which privilege the foolish wretches pay their few pence weekly to the
astute rascals who run the branches of which they are members. Only a
few minutes' walk from the Commercial Road are the King's Arms (closed
lately), in Fieldgate Street, and the Sugar Loaf, in Hanbury Street,
both favourite resorts of the East End Anarchists, who get up the
weekly discussions that tempt poor flies into the trap. Too lazy to
work, they find in the mischievous propaganda they spread a capital
means of bringing grist to their own particular mills. When not engaged
in this work, the leaders and followers of East End Anarchism have only
one resource, what they term Klein
Shas, literally the 'little
Talmud', a euphemism for card-playing; and they spend night after night
in the haunts mentioned and the card rooms that abound in the
neighbourhoods, gambling away the last coin that should have gone to
their underfed wives and children, and returning home to rave afresh
against society and the iniquity of those who do not go and do
likewise.
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