
Rosemary Lane
Rosemary Lane (originally Hog Lane, or Hoggestrete) was the continuation of what is now Cable Street, running from the junction with Dock Street and Leman Street to the Tower of London. On the Royal Mint site from 1350 to 1540 had been the Cistercian abbey of St Mary Graces [hence Graces Alley], founded by Edward III and subject to the monastery at Beaulieu. It had a large burial ground; an archaeological excavation was undertaken in 1986. Rosemary Lane was renamed Royal Mint Street in 1850 - the new Mint building lay to the south, towards East Smithfield; in the same period, for prudish reasons, Petticoat Lane was renamed Middlesex Street. Both are best known for their street markets - the difference being that Rosemary Lane, as these extracts show, was primarily for second-hand trade.
A
grant was recorded on 31 October 1631 to William Bawdrick and
Roger Hunt of the King's interest in certain tenements in Rosemary
Lane. Middlesex, the lease of which was taken by Horatio Franchotti, an
alien, but discovered and prosecuted for on His Majesty's behalf.
Richard
Brandon
the
public executioner - who beheaded King Charles I and a number of
leading Royalists - died in Rosemary Lane. The burial registers of St
Mary Whitechapel record
1649, June 21st. Rich. Brandon, a man out of Rosemary Lane.... this R. Brandon is supposed to have cut off the head of Charles the First.
Another
account adds:
He likewise confessed that he had thirty pounds for his pains,
all paid him in half-crowns, within an hour after the blow was given;
and that he had an orange stuck full of cloves, and a hankercher, out
of the king's pocket, so soon as he was carried off from the scaffold,
for which orange he was proffered twenty shillings by a gentleman in
Whitehall, but refused the same, and afterward sold it for ten
shillings in Rosemary Lane.

The
poet Edmund
Spenser (1552-99) was born between Rosemary Lane and East
Smithfield.
He attended Merchant
Taylors' School,
founded in the City in 1561 by Richard Hills, master of the Company.
Hills also endowed a group of cottages on the north side of Rosemary
Lane as almshouses for fourteen elderly women, who were to receive 1s.
4d. per
week, under his will, and £8. 15s. annually from
the Company. Alderman Ratcliffe of the Company added
the
benefaction of one hundred loads of timber.
1720
John
Strype's Survey
of London spoke of the small, nasty and beggarly
streets around The Minories.

Daniel Defoe Colonel Jack (1722)
Several works by, or attributed to, Daniel Defoe
(1659-1731) mention the area. Colonel
Jack had
his Breeding near Goodman's-fields and spent his
youth rambling about
Rosemary Lane and Ratcliff. After his nurse died, Jack and his
companions
lived for some years each winter in the glasshouse near Rosemary Lane;
on one
occasion they went to Rag Fair and bought two pairs of shoes and
stockings for
5d., and went on to a
boiling Cook's in Rosemary Lane where they
found cheap fare.
Alexander Pope and The Dunciad
Pope's
satire
of 1728 (with subsequent editions in 1735 and 1743) was a
protest against the tasteless, counterfeit, second-hand standards of
the journalism and poetry of his day - the worship of the goddess
Dulness. He used images of low-life venues, shifting from Grub Street
in the west to Rosemary Lane's Rag Fair in the east, and included these
lines:
He added the note: Rag-fair is
a place near the Tower of London, where
old cloaths and frippery are sold. A contemporary
commentator added Much
of the
clothing that was sold there was stolen; the market was also the final
destination of all cast-off rags, in an epoch notorious for its
careless habits and for seldom or never changing its linen. See
further Pat Rogers Hacks and Dunces
(1980), exploring the detail of this imagery.
The Daily Gazetteer,
2 August 1736
| Late
on Friday night, and early on Saturday morning, a great disturbance
happen’d in Rosemary-lane, near Rag-fair, where upwards of 150 men
assembled in a riotous manner with clubs, and other unlawful weapons,
and oblig’d all the house-keepers in Rose-mary-lane, and the parts
adjacent, to put lights in their windows, otherwise they would pull
their houses down, which put the people in the greatest consternation;
so that the whole place appear’d with lights at each window; and some
few that had none, got their windows broke to pieces. The mob went from
Rosemary-lane to Well-street by the Watch-house, and pull’d down the
house of one Welden, a cook, at the sign of the Bull and Butcher, and
broke the houshold goods all to pieces. By this time Clifford William
Phillips, of Goodman’s-fields, and Richard Farmer, of
Well-Close-square, Esqrs. two of his Majesty’s Justices of the Peace,
had procured a party of Grenadiers from the Tower, with a Commanding
Officer, in order to disperse the mob, but to no purpose, for they went
from Well-street into Rag-Fair, and demolish’d the Queen’s Head, and a
cook’s shop (the master of which is an Irish man) in Mill-yard, and a
tavern hard by, kept by Irish people: From Rag-Fair they went to
Church-lane, and demolish’d the White-Hart Ale-house, and from thence
to White-Lion-street, and demolish’d the Gentleman and Porter, they
being all houses where Irishmen used. The general cry was, while they
were committing these outrages, Down with the wild Irish. Justice
Phillips, and the commanding officers from the Tower, had their swords
drawn, and desired the mob quietly to depart; but they could not
disperse them till towards four o’clock on Saturday morning, when John
Brundit, Edward Dudley, William Ormond, Robert Maccay, Thomas Batteroy,
and Robert Page, were apprehended, and on Saturday night were committed
to Newgate. A party of his Majesty’s Horse-Guards, a party of the Horse Grenadiers, and two parties of Foot, patrole every night in the streets of Spital-fields, White-chappel, Rag-Fair, &c. Last Saturday about 16 other persons were apprehended, on suspicion of being concern’d in the said riots. |
The Public Advertiser, 17 February 1756
Two late 18th century images
of Rag Fair
Bowles' print of 1795 is entitled High Change, Rag Fair. It depicts the City end of the market, near Wellclose Square. The term 'high (ex)change' was borrowed from the financial markets, to depict the period of maximum activity, when the male stallholders would take over from the women and children. The market traded every day except Saturday, the Jewish Sabbath.
Rowlandson's
watercolour is from a few years later. The detail of the shop
signs shows the prominence of Jews in this trade:
'MOSES
MONCERA Old Hats & Wigs bought Sold or Exchanged';
'WIDOW LEVY dealer in Old Breeches'; 'Most money given for Bad Silver
MOSES ESTARDO'; PETER SMOUTCH Mony Rais'd on Good Security'. It was
commonly believed that Jews were responsible for most counterfeit
coinage. Several of the dealers standing by their
stalls are
bearded, wear long
coats and carry piles of hats on their heads, all features traditional
to the iconographic depiction of street Jews.
In Lights
and Shadows of
London Life (1842) James Grant describes a visit to
Rag Fair:
The buyers and
sellers...are thorough
men of business. They are persons of few words; they have no time for
talking.... "How much?" says Moses, snatching a coat, or waistcoat, or
pair of trousers, from the arms or shoulders of Solomon, and giving it
a hasty inspection. "Van and sixpensh," answers the later. "Take van
and twopensh?" says the former. "No," remarks Solomon; and thereupon
Moses tosses the article of "old clo" contemptuously on his arms and
marches away with a snarlish expression of countenance.
The
articles of commerce by no means belie the name. There is no expressing
the poverty of the goods, nor yet their cheapness. A distinguished
merchant engaged with a purchaser observing me look on him with great
attention, called out to me, as his customer was going off with his
bargain, to observe that man, 'for,' says he, 'I have actually clothed
him for fourteen pence.' It was here, we believe, that
purchasers were
allowed to dip in a sack for old wigs—a penny the dip. Noblemen's suits
come here at last, after undergoing many vicissitudes.
Pennant's book can be read here. However, Joseph Nightingale's London and Middlesex (1815) remarks
The idea which Mr. Pennant formed of this place will be found to have been extremely erroneous; "the poverty of the goods and their cheapness," which he mentions, no longer exist. That a man may be wholly clothed here for fourteen pence is a pure fiction. It is true, that during a part of every afternoon the middle of the street is nearly filled with a number of Jews and other persons selling clothes, and second hand various articles of dress at a very low rate; hut the houses in Rosemary Lane, or the so called Rag Fair, are mostly occupied by wholesale dealers in clothes, who used to export them to our colonies, and to South America. In several Exchanges, or large covered buildings, fitted up with counters, &c. there are good shops, and the annual circulation of money in the purliens of this place, is really astonishing, considering the articles sold, although their cheapness bears no kind of proportion to Mr. Pennant's conjectures.
| A full linen-fronted
shirt, very elegant . . . . . 6d. A pair of warm worsted stockings . . . . .1d A pair of light-coloured trousers . . . . . 6d A black cloth waistcoat . . . . . 3d A pair of white cotton braces . . . . . 1d A pair of low shoes . . . . .1d A black silk velvet stock . . . . . 1d A black beaver, fly-fronted, double-breasted paletot coat, lined with silk, a very superior article . . . . . 1s. 6d A cloth cap, bound with a figured band . . . . . 1d A pair of black cloth gloves . . . . . 1d [Total]. . . . . 3s. 3d. |
| A shift . . . . . 1d A pair of stays . . . . . 2d A flannel petticoat . . . . . 4d A black Orleans ditto . . . . . 4d A pair of white cotton stockings . . . . . 1d A very good light-coloured cotton gown . . . . . 10d A pair of single-soled slippers, with spring heels . . . . . 2d A double-dyed bonnet, including a neat cap . . . . . 2d A pair of white cotton gloves . . . . . 1d A lady's green silk paletot, lined with crimson silk, trimmed with black . . . . . 10d [Total]. . . . 3s. 1d. |
Henry
Mayhew London Labour
and the London Poor (1861)
A Cyclopædia of the Condition
and Earnings of
Those that will work,
those that cannot work,
and those that will not work
Henry Mayhew was an indefatigable chronicler of the London scene. He has his prejudices - including a strong anti-semitic streak - but provides much valuable detail of social and economic conditions.
|
A
cursory observation might lead an inexperienced person to the
conclusion, that these old clothes traders who are standing by the
bundles of gowns, or lines of coats, hanging from their doorposts, or
in the place from which the window has been removed, or at the sides of
their houses, or piled in the street before them, are drowsy
people,
for they seem to sit among their property, lost in thought, or caring
only for the fumes of a pipe. But let any one indicate, even by an
approving glance, the likelihood of his becoming a customer, and see if
there be any lack of diligence in business. Some, indeed,
pertinaciously invite attention to their wares; some (and often
welldressed women) leave their premises a few yards to accost a
stranger pointing to a "good dresscoat" or "an excellent frock" (coat).
I am told that this practice is less pursued than it was, and it seems
that the solicitations are now addressed chiefly to strangers. These
strangers, persons happening to be passing, or visitors from curiosity,
are at once recognised; for as in all not very extended localities,
where the inhabitants pursue a similar calling, they are, as regards
their knowledge of one another, as the members of one family. Thus a
stranger is as easily recognised as he would be in a little rustic
hamlet where a strange face is not seen once a quarter. Indeed so
narrow are some of the streets and alleys in this quarter, and so
little is there of privacy, owing to the removal, in warm weather, even
of the casements, that the room is commanded in all its domestic
details; and as among these details there is generally a further
display of goods similar to the articles outside, the jammedup places
really look like a great family house with merely a sort of channel,
dignified by the name of a street, between the right and left suites of
apartments. In
one off-street, where on a Sunday there is a
considerable demand for Jewish sweet-meats by Christian boys, and a
little sly, and perhaps not very successful gambling on the part of the
ingenuous youth to possess themselves of these confectionaries at the
easiest rate, there are some mounds of builders' rubbish upon which, if
an inquisitive person ascended, he could command the details of the
upper rooms, probably the bed chambers—if in their crowded apartments
these traders can find spaces for beds. It must not be supposed that old clothes are more than the great staple of the traffic of this district. Wherever persons are assembled there are certain to be purveyors of provisions and of cool or hot drinks for warm or cold weather. The interior of the Old Clothes Exchange has its oyster-stall, its fountain of ginger-beer, its coffeehouse, and ale-house, and a troop of peripatetic traders, boys principally, carrying trays. Outside the walls of the Exchange this trade is still thicker. A Jew boy thrusts a tin of highly-glazed cakes and pastry under the people's noses here; and on the other side a basket of oranges regales the same sense by its proximity. At the next step the thoroughfare is interrupted by a gaudylooking ginger-beer, lemonade, raspberryade, and nectar fountain; "a halfpenny a glass, a halfpenny a glass, sparkling lemonade!" shouts the vendor as you pass. The fountain and the glasses glitter in the sun, the varnish of the wood-work shines, the lemonade really does sparkle, and all looks clean—except the owner. Close by is a brawny young Irishman, his red beard unshorn for perhaps ten days, and his neck, where it had been exposed to the weather, a far deeper red than his beard, and he is carrying a small basket of nuts, and selling them as gravely as if they were articles suited to his strength. A little lower is the cry, in a woman's voice, "Fish, fried fish! Ha'penny; fish, fried fish!" and so monotonously and mechanically is it ejaculated that one might think the seller's life was passed in uttering these few words, even as a rook's is in crying "Caw, caw." Here I saw a poor Irishwoman who had a child on her back buy a piece of this fish (which may be had "hot" or "cold"), and tear out a piece with her teeth, and this with all the eagerness and relish of appetite or hunger; first eating the brown outside and then sucking the bone. I never saw fish look firmer or whiter. That fried fish is to be procured is manifest to more senses than one, for you can hear the sound of its being fried, and smell the fumes from the oil. In an open window opposite frizzle on an old tray, small pieces of thinly-cut meat, with a mixture of onions, kept hot by being placed over an old pan containing charcoal. In another room a mess of batter is smoking over a grate. "Penny a lot, oysters," resounds from different parts. Some of the sellers command two streets by establishing their stalls or tubs at a corner. Lads pass, carrying sweet-stuff on trays. I observed one very dark-eyed Hebrew boy chewing the hard-bake he vended—if it were not a substitute—with an expression of great enjoyment. Heaped--up trays of fresh-looking sponge-cakes are carried in tempting pyramids. Youths have stocks of large hardlooking biscuits, and walk about crying, "Ha'penny biscuits, ha'penny; three a penny, biscuits;" these, with a morsel of cheese, often supply a dinner or a luncheon. Dates and figs, as dry as they are cheap, constitute the stock in trade of other street-sellers. "Coker-nuts" are sold in pieces and entire; the Jew boy, when he invites to the purchase of an entire nut, shaking it at the ear of the customer. I was told by a costermonger that these juveniles had a way of drumming with their fingers on the shell so as to satisfy a "green" customer that the nut offered was a sound one. Such
are the summer eatables and drinkables which I have lately seen vended
in the Petticoat-lane district. In winter there are, as long as
daylight
lasts—and in no other locality perhaps does it last so short a
time—other street provisions, and, if possible, greater zeal in selling
them, the hours of business being circumscribed. There is then the
potato-can and the hot elder-wine apparatus, and smoking pies and
puddings, and roasted apples and chestnuts, and walnuts, and the
several fruits which ripen in the autumn—apples, pears, &c. Hitherto
I have spoken only of such eatables and drinkables as are ready for
consumption, but to these the trade in the Petticoat-lane district is
by no means confined. There is fresh fish, generally of the cheaper
kinds, and smoked or dried fish (smoked salmon, moreover, is sold
ready cooked), and costermongers' barrows, with their loads of
green
vegetables, looking almost out of place amidst the surrounding
dinginess. The cries of "Fine cauliflowers," "Large penny cabbages,"
"Eight a shilling, mackarel," "Eels, live eels," mix strangely with the
hubbub of the busier street. Other
street-sellers also abound. You
meet one man who says mysteriously, and rather bluntly, "Buy a good
knife, governor." His tone is remarkable, and if it attract attention,
he may hint that he has smuggled goods which he must sell anyhow. Such
men, I am told, look out mostly for seamen, who often resort to
Petticoat-lane; for idle men like sailors on shore, and idle
uncultivated men often love to lounge where there is bustle. Pocket and
pen knives and scissors, "Penny a piece, penny a pair," rubbed over
with oil, both to hide and prevent rust, are carried on trays, and
spread on stalls, some stalls consisting of merely a tea-chest lid on a
stool. Another man, carrying perhaps a sponge in his hand, and
well-dressed, asks you, in a subdued voice, if you want a good razor,
as if he almost suspected that you meditated suicide, and were looking
out for the means! This is another ruse to introduce smuggled (or
"duffer's") goods. Account-books are hawked. "Penny-a-quire," shouts
the itinerant street stationer (who, if questioned, always declares he
said "Penny half quire"). "Stockings, stockings, two pence a pair."
"Here's your chewl-ry; penny, a penny; pick'em and choose 'em." [I may
remark that outside the window of one shop, or rather parlour, if there
be any such distinction here, I saw the handsomest, as far as I am able
to judge, and the best cheap jewellery I ever saw in the streets.]
"Pencils, sir, pencils; steel-pens, steel-pens; ha'penny, penny;
pencils, steel-pens; sealing-wax, wax, wax, wax!" shouts one, "Green
peas, ha'penny a pint!" cries another. These
things, however, are
but the accompaniments of the main traffic. But as such things
accompany all traffic, not on a small scale, and may be found in almost
every metropolitan thoroughfare, where the police are not required, by
the householders, to interfere, I will point out, to show the
distinctive character of the street-trade in this part, what is not
sold and not encouraged. I saw no old books. There were no flowers; no
music, which indeed could not be heard except at the outskirts of the
din; and no beggars plying their vocation among the trading class. Another
peculiarity pertaining alike to this shop and street locality is, that
everything is at the veriest minimum of price; though it may not be
asked, it will assuredly be taken. The bottle of lemonade which is
elsewhere a penny is here a halfpenny. The tarts, which among the
street-sellers about the Royal Exchange are a halfpenny each, are here
a farthing. When lemons are two a-penny in St. George's-market,
Oxford-street, as the long line of street stalls towards the western
extremity is called—they are three and four a-penny in Petticoat and
Rosemary lanes. Certainly there is a difference in size between the
dearer and the cheaper tarts and lemons, and perhaps there is a
difference in quality also, but the rule of a minimized cheapness has
no exceptions in this cheaptrading quarter.... further description of Petticoat Lane follows - and see here for detailed accounts of various types of second-hand trade |

There are further Victorian accounts of the area in Walter Thornbury Old and New London, vol.2 (1878) and Henry Wheatley London Past and Present (1891), who comments Royal Mint Street has hardly so evil a
reputation as Rosemary Lane, but it is a squalid place, lined with old
clothes' shops and stalls, and on Sunday mornings the aspect of Rag
Fair, as it is still commonly called, is anything but edifying.
The
market continued, but the creation of the Docks and spread of railway
warehouses and depots - including this one just by on Royal Mint Street
- and more recently the building of the Docklands Light Railway changed the character of the area. Petticoat Lane, of course, is
still going strong!
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