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Jewish Presence (1) - Settlement & Synagogues

note: the Whitechapel Gallery, a fine Arts & Crafts building of 1901 designed by Charles Harrison Townsend, restored and extended in 2009, became a focal point for Jewish intellectual life in the area, and its reading room and exhibitions reflect this. The London Metropolitan Archives has a good display of Jewish life in the East End, based around a wall-size version of the map shown below.

see here for the 1983 Auschwitz exhibition at St George-in-the-East.

A new immigrant community

In Russia, Tsar Nicholas I (1825-55) issued many decrees regulating Jewish life, and after the collapse of Poland in 1835 Jews were mainly confined to the Pale of Settlements (present-day Lithuania, Ukraine, Belarus and eastern Poland), where they lived in isolated and impoverished shtetls (small market towns). The assassination of Tsar Alexander II in 1881 led to vicious pogroms (the worst at Kishinev in 1903), and vast numbers fled. Many of them walked to Hamburg, from where - if they could obtain a visa, which usually involved bribery - they could sail to London in appalling steerage class conditions for 16s. a head (half price for children). From 1880-1895 they landed at Irongate Steps, Tilbury Dock, where some were sold bogus onward tickets to the USA.

There were 6,000 Jews in England in 1740, 20,000 in 1810, 35,000 in 1850 and 60,000 in 1880; by 1914 this had increased to 300,000 (official figures almost certainly under-represent the numbers, because of the fear that overcrowding would be reported). The majority were in London. Previous Jewish settlers - mainly Spanish and Portuguese, and Dutch Ashkenazis - were horrified at the influx: in 1888 the former Chief Rabbi Nathan Adler wrote to the rabbis in Eastern Europe: Every Rabbi of a community kindly to preach in the synagogue and house of study, to publicise the evil which is befalling our brethren who have come here and to warn them not to come to the land of Britain, for such ascent is descent. Reports home from families who had settled here were garbled and contradictory.

G. Eugene Harfield's handsomely-printed Commerical Directory of the Jews of the United Kingdom (Hewlett & Pierce 5634/1894), listing established traders and professionals (including barristers) throughout the land, is a sign of the desire to make good by assimilation, which a flood of poor immigrants threatened - see below. Significantly, its title page [right] combines Palestinian aspirations and loyalty to the Crown. (See here for the listings of shops and businesses in this parish.)  By contrast, many eastern European immigrants espoused radical politics: see here for a scurrilous, and racist, article from the Evening Standard of 1894 on the 'haunts of the anarchists'.

The British Brothers League, formed in 1901, agitated for an end to immigration and called for repatriation. Who is corrupting our morals? The Jews. Who is destroying our Sundays? The Jews. Who is debasing our national life? The Jews. Shame on them. Wipe them out. The 1905 Aliens Act reduced immigration by 40% - immigration officers were given the right to deport 'undersirable' (the term was not defined) immigrants. A few Jewish politicians actually supported this trend. It certainly changed the scene: for instance, most Jewish schoolchildren were now those of the second generation, who had been born here. The local Board schools were heavily used for voluntary activities on Sundays.

Patterns of settlement
Russell & Lewis's 1900 map of Jewish East London
[right] shows the density of Jewish settlement street by street - from dark blue (over 95%) to dark pink (less than 5%). In this parish, the dark blue areas were all north of the railway line: from west to east, the Goodman's Fields area (then part of St Mark Whitechapel), some streets to the east of Backchurch Lane (then part of St John's parish), the area round Rampart Street, and the top of Watney Street (then part of Christ Church parish). South of the railway, only Cannon Street Road and Cable Street were predominantly Jewish, plus the area north of the railway and west of Cannon Street Road. All other parts of the parish are light or dark pink - including a few patches in the Jewish 'heartlands': some of these were predominantly Irish.
The details changed somewhat in the following years, but the pattern remained broadly the same.


Charles Booth's 1889/1898 poverty survey had noted
The German Jew is coming into St George's in large and increasing numbers. They can live under conditions and so close together as to put to shame the ordinary overcrowding of the English casual labourer ... There were at one time only Irish colonies in St George's but these are slowly giving way before the German Jew who ocupies their quarters and supplants them in other ways. His secretaries saw their influence as mixed: although they contributed to appalling overcrowding, they presented a favourable contrast to the promiscuity of many of the English poor and could be seen as as cleaners or scavengers of districts of Irish poor, although this was not true in 'better' districts. See here for a sample local survey.

Before 1939 there were some 80,000 Jews in the East End and about 70 synagogues. However, although most homes were 'observant' - keeping Sabbath and some or all of the dietary laws - synagogue attendance was probably not more than 25% in most areas. Today, with but a couple of thousand Jews, there is not a single kosher butcher, and the three surviving synagogues struggle to maintain a minyan (quorum of ten men) for the Shabbat service; others have disappeared, often without a trace. However, Tubby Isaac's famous jellied eel stall remains near Aldgate East station [right].

Welfare agencies; housing; Jews' Temporary Shelter
Various welfare charities had been active in the first half of the 19th century to cater for poor Jews in East London. Among those in this parish, see here for the Joel Emanuel Almshouse and the Hand in Hand Home which were based in Wellclose Square in the 1850s, and here for the Jews' Orphan Asylum based in North Tenter Street from 1848-77, and other Jewish influences in the Goodman's Field area. But with the new influx in the latter years of the century, Baron Rothschild warned: We have now a new Poland on our hands in East London. Our first business is to humanise our Jewish immigrants and then to Anglicise them. (See below on Basil Henriques, who took the same approach.)

Lord Rothschild (Nathaniel 'Natty' Mayer Rothschild), head of the family bank after his father's death in 1879, and the first (observant) Jewish peer (voting with the Conservative and Unionists) was a key founder of the Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Company - see here for more details - following the United Synagogue's 1884 enquiry into 'spiritual destitution'. Most of the patrons and tenants of their 'model artisan dwellings' were Jewish, particularly at the Rothschild Buildings in Flower and Dean Street, which became a focal point of Jewish life - see Jerry White Rothschild Buildings: Life in an East End Tenement Block, 1887-1920 (Routledge 1980). (The company later built Albert Buildings next to the Peabody Estate.) Until his death in 1915, Lord Rothschild was a trustee of the London Mosque Fund - a rôle later held by Lord Winterton.

The Jews' Temporary Shelter was originally created in 1886 by Hermann Landau at 84 Leman Street to provide a couple of nights' accommodation for penniless immigrants arriving in London (it's said that the address was bought and sold in Eastern Europe among would-immigrants); in 1895 it received substantial funding from another banker-philanthropist, Samuel Montagu (who became a Liberal MP and later a peer). Pictured 1891; 1901 (in Living London 1901-2); undated.

In 1906 the Shelter relocated to 63 Mansell Street [pictured right] - the organisation still exists, but the building is now a private clinic.

The Jews' Free School had been founded by Joshua van Oven in 1817, in Bell Lane, Spitalfields - through traces its origins back to a Talmud Torah set up for a couple of dozen orphan boys in 1732 by affluent members of the Ashkenazi Great Synagogue. By the turn of the 20th century, supported by the Rothschilds, it laid claim to be the largest secondary school in the world, with over 4,000 pupils (boys and girls). [The 'JFS' is now in Kenton, and was recently involved in controversy over its admissions policy.]

'The Hutch'
In 1872 a Jewish Working Men's Club & Lads' Institute had been founded by the Jewish Association for the Diffusion of Religious Knowledge, with a reading room and lecture hall at Hutchison House, Hutchison Street, Aldgate; Samuel Montagu was President. Becoming independent two years later, they added a library, games, entertainments and other club features for 400 members of both sexes. In 1883, a purpose-built club for 1,500 was built in Great Alie Street, with a Lads' Institute for boys between 14 and 20. Membership continued to increase; the Lads' Institute returned to Hutchison Street, and in 1892 the Great Alie Street premises were enlarged at a cost of £4,000. By 1905 there were 975 members, and the Hutchison House Club was created by the Rothschild family in conjunction with Max Bonn (1877-1938, an American-born merchant banker, later Sir Max Bonn KBE) and Frank Goldsmith MP, based at Camperdown House, in Half Moon Passage. (In 1915 they offered these premises to the government for war work; in the 1920s, social work conferences were held here.) 
It thus became one of several local agencies committed to encouraging young people to combine loyalty to faith and citizenship - see below for another example - particularly through sport ('the sunshine of manly sports and pastimes'). It was also the HQ of the Jewish Lads' and Girls' Brigade (in some rivalry with Jewish scout troops). When the club closed, administrative activities transferred to north London; in more recent times, it has funded a London University research fellowship: see Sharman Kadish A Good Jew and a Good Englishman (Vallentine Mitchell 1995). Pictured is present-day Camperdown House, an office block at 6 Braham Street.

Political and Friendly Societies; Workers' Circle (Arbeiter Ring)
The centre of working-class left wing activism was the Workers' Circle, which functioned as a friendly society and a cultural, social and political club, established by cabinet-makers in an upstairs room in Brick Lane in 1909. Its membership was broad, including trade unionists, Marxists and Communists, Labour Party members, anarchists and Zionists. Between the war 20 branches were established, in London and elsewhere, with total membership rising to about 3,000 by 1939, after which it declined (it disbanded in 1985). It owned a rest home in Littlehampton. Symons House at 22 Alie Street [modern picture] became its headquarters in 1924, providing lectures, concerts, dances, debates and classes. Workers gathered in its canteen to read newspapers, drink tea and argue, finding, as one writer put it, consolation, a spiritual refuge from their struggle with the day-to-day world, a place to recharge their dreams. [The only Jewish Friendly Society now remaining is The Grand Order of David and Shield of Israel Friendly Society, which now functions solely as a social club.]

Thus over time what has been described as a 'miniature welfare state' for the Jewish East End emerged. This 1896 article comments on the range of Jewish activities in Whitechapel, and this 1911 article somewhat sentimentally contrasts the 'Jewish' end of Cable Street, around the Shelter, with its 'Irish' end. Vibrant patterns of Jewish life emerged, with Yiddish newspapers, theatre, the Hessel Street market and many social, philanthropic and political organisations. The First World War brought sharp tensions, as many German and Austrian-born Jews were interned under the Aliens Restriction Act of 1914. Samuel Montagu, Lord Rothschild and other members of the Board of Deputies of British Jews were the signatories of this letter appealing for help on behalf of the Russo-Jewish Committee in London to assist the victims of the pogroms in Russia.



Synagogues in the parish
The history of Jewish settlement and life in East London has been extensively researched and written about. This is purely a record of 24 known synagogues that existed, for longer or shorter periods, in this parish. The historic roots of East London Jewry were in Spitalfields and Whitechapel, but spread over time east towards Bethnal Green, and south into this area.

All but one (which is described below) were Orthodox and Ashkenazi in their foundation and ritual. This was for two reasons: primarily because most of the settlers were from Eastern Europe, but also because the establishment of Sephardic synagogues in the area was inhibited by the presence of the historic Bevis Marks synagogue on the edge of the City, representing a somewhat different style of Jewish life, which as noted above reacted nervously to the new influx. (This is the oldest synagogue in England, built in 1701 and designed by the Quaker Joseph Avis who had worked with Wren, so its style is not unlike contemporary Anglican and nonconformist churches - deliberately so, since this was the prevailing architectural style and they did not wish to draw attention to themselves. It is tucked off the main street since at that time Jews were not permitted to build on main thoroughfares. Benjamin Disraeli's family had been members here, before a dispute which led to the children being baptized as Christians - which in due course enabled him to serve as prime minister.)  Apart from the divisions between Sephardi and Ashkenazi Jews, there were tensions between the various, very different immigrant groups:  for example, urban Jews from Kiev, Ukrainian farmers, those from small Galician (Austrian) towns and those from Polish ghettoes.

Willy Goldman (1910-2009), who grew up near the St George-in-the-East district and wrote East End my Cradle in 1940 and several other books about East End life, said that Rumanian and Polish Jews mutually regard each other as God's lowest creation. As one who largely rejected his religious heritage, he also wrote We Jewish children acknowledged the superiority of the Gentiles' method in one field: religion. He was practically exempt from it. With us the Rabbis dominated one part of our life as the school-teacher dominated the other. Most of their teaching, he reckoned, would have been forgotten within a week of barmitzvah.... But other East End Jewish writers (of which there are many) have a different take: Emanuel Litvinoff (1915-2011), for example, never had a bar mitzvah because his father returned to Russia and his mother could not afford it: see Journey Through a Small Planet  (1972).

The oldest congregations in this area were on the edge of, or just within, the City, in what became the parish of St Mark Whitechapel, many of whose late-19th century clergy were actively involved in Christian-Jewish mission, but which closed a generation later for lack of a local Christian population. Here are details of several Jewish convert clergy who served at St Mark's and at Christ Church, Watney Street.

In 1887 the Federation of Synagogues was established on the initiative of Samuel Montagu MP who was concerned by the spread of worship in small, unregulated and often insanitary premises. Those marked (1) were represented from the time of the preliminary meeting on 16 October 1887, those marked (2) from its official launch on 6 November 1887, and those marked (3) affiliated later. The title 'Great' does not mean that they were grand buildings - most were not - but rather that they were purpose-built amalgamations of small synagogues which previously met in homes or converted workshops.

In time, all those in the parish closed, amalgamating with other congregations, both local and further afield. A few remain on its borders - Nelson Street, Commercial Road and Fieldgate Street – but they are struggling to survive. However, they are actively involved in interfaith activity, through Tower Hamlets Interfaith Forum - and there is also a slight increase in young Jewish professionals living in the 'City Quarter' who attend daily prayers.

The synagogues are listed in historical order of foundation.

founded
affiliated
name
address
subsequent history
1747/8
[1]
1
Prescot Street Synagogue
pre-1870s: Love and Kindness Chevra (Chevra Ahavat v'Chesed), originally Rosemary Lane congregation - Mahazike Torah
Prescot Street (or Great Prescott Street), Goodman's Fields
pre-1870s: Rosemary Lane (now Royal Mint Street)
closed between 1887 and 1896
1792
[1]
1
Scarborough Street Synagogue 
previously The Gun Yard, or Gun Square, 'Polish' Synagogue
Scarborough Street, Goodman's Fields - until 1870s: Mansell Street; originally Guy Yard, or Square, Hounsditch closed 1920s
c1840
a private minyan
Moses Moore's Synagogue
66 Mansell Street
closed late 19th century
pre-1870
not known
Flasch's Synagogue (or Flasch's Congregation) Mansell Street
closed
pre-1870
not known
Mansell Street Synagogue (Zussmann's Synagogue) Mansell Street
closed
1880s
1
Peace & Tranquility Chevra (originally Mansell Street Synagogue, then Buckle Street Synagogue Mansell Street, then Buckle Street (off Leman Street)
closed pre-1918
1881-87
1
(United) Kalischer Synagogue, or Kalischer Chevra St Mark's Street
closed by 1896
pre-1887
2
Lodzer (the Lodz) Synagogue
probable successor to Bikkur Cholim Sons of Lodz Chevra
80-81 Davis Mansions, New Goulston Street
(previously Newcastle Street)
merged c1934 with Lubiner to become Lubmer & Lomzer (Lubimer & Lodzer) Synagogue; closed after 1947, joined Fieldgate Street Great Synagogue
1895
3
(Great) Alie Street Synagogue
41 Alie Street (formerly 40/41 Great Alie Street) closed 1969, joined Fieldgate Street Great Synagogue
1895
[2]
3
Cannon Street Road Synagogue
143 Cannon Street Road
closed 1970s, joined East London Central Synagogue (Nelson Street)
1898
3 at times,
and also to the Adath Yisroel Burial Society
of the Union of Orthodox Hebrew Congregations

Commercial Road Talmud Torah Synagogue 
(also Christian Street Synagogue or Talmud Torah Synagogue) 

[now the site of a mosque]

9-11 Christian Street
closed pre-1930, building disposed of 1937


1902
independent, later 3
Shadwell and St. George's Synagogue 
(Chebrah Torah & Bikkur Cholim)
191 The Highway
(previously 59 St George Street)
closed c1951
pre-1905
3
Buross Street Synagogue 47a Buross Street, Commercial Road closed pre 1956, joined East London Central Synagogue (Nelson Street)
pre-1915
3
Commercial Road Synagogue
90 Commercial Road
may have been succeeded by Plotsker Synagogue
pre-1915
3
Neshelska Synagogue Lawrence Buildings, Cannon Street Road closed 1920s
pre-1915
3
Little Alie Street Synagogue (New Synagogue)
(formerly Zoar Baptist Chapel)
Little Alie Street
closed 1920s
pre-1919
3
Lubiner (the Lublin) Synagogue
3 Lawrence Buildings,
Cannon Street Road,
merged c1934 at this address with Lodz to become Lubmer & Lomzer (Lubimer & Lodzer) Synagogue; closed after 1947, joined Fieldgate Street Great Synagogue
pre-1919
3
Plotsker Synagogue
45 (previously 90?) Commercial Road closed pre-1930
pre-1930
3
B'nai Brichtan (Sons of Brichtan) Synagogue 23 Bromehead Street closed 1952, joined East London Central Synagogue (Nelson Street)
pre-1930
3
The Rumanian Synagogue
6/7 Christian (previously Matilda) Street closed after 1947
pre-1930
3
Grove Street (Great) Synagogue 96 Golding (formerly Grove) Street closed after 1949, joined East London Central Synagogue (Nelson Street)
1930s
Union of Orthodox Hebrew Congregations Special Verein (Society) Bikur Cholim 39 Harris Buildings, Burslem Street closed c1948
1930s
Union of Orthodox Hebrew Congregations Hebrew Centre Synagogue 74 Jane Street
closed 1940s

[1] two of the three small congregations established in London in the eighteenth century. The third was the Cutler Street 'Polish' Synagogue.

[2] pictured inside in 1930, and site today. There had also been a Kurland Synagogue at 133 Cannon Street Road [now part of City Wellbeing Practice], not recommended for inclusion in the Federation because it had no accommodation for women and no fire exit; in 1946 LBM took a 99-year lease on the premises to establish, or perhaps continue an existing, mikveh (ritual bathing place for women).


St George's Settlement Synagogue
was founded just after the First World War by Mr (later Sir) Basil Lucas Quixano Henriques (1890-1961) at 26a Betts Street, moving in 1929 to 33 Berner Street, off Commercial Road, on the site of a former Board School. In the mid-1920s it affiliated to the Movement for Reform Judaism and the Union of Liberal and Progressive Synagogues (which later became 'Liberal Judaism') - preface to their prayer book right. Sir Basil - 'the Gaffer' -  was educated at Harrow and Oxford, and his wife Rose, née Loewe - 'the Missus', though he called her 'Bunny' - became leading figures in the community, and advocated an assimilationist or Anglicised style of Jewish life, which was promoted through their clubs and holiday camps which were run on traditional English lines. (See here for his involvement in the creation of the war memorial at St George's.)


The Oxford & St George's Club began in 1914 at 125 Cannon Street Road, originally for boys; in 1919 girls were included and it moved to Betts Street, and in 1929 to Berner Street. He remained as Warden until 1947, and was also chairman of the East London Juvenile Court, President of the London Federation of Boys' Clubs and involved with the [Royal] London Hospital. See further his autobiography The Indiscretions of a Warden (Methuen 1937) and L.L. Loewe Basil Henriques (RKP 1979).

There were other Jewish clubs with similar ideals, such as 'The Hutch' (see above), Brady and Victoria Boys. Habonim is said to have been founded in Cannon Street Road in 1929 by Wellesley Aron and Norman Lourie, modelled on the German Wandervogel movement, and espousing collective strength and outdoor activities; Habonim Dror is now a major international secular socialist Zionist youth movement.

After Sir Basil's death Berner Street was renamed Henriques Street in 1961 [pictured 1909, inter-war and today]. The site of the synagogue and club, at no.71, was named Bernhard Baron House [pictured right] and is now private apartments.

In the 1980s the Settlement Synagogue (as by then it was known) moved to 2 Beaumont Grove E1, and in 1998 it merged with the South West Reform Synagogue, Newbury Park, Ilford where it became South West Essex and Settlement Reform Synagogue.



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