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St John the Evangelist-in-the-East Golding Street 

(formerly Grove Street or Low Grove Street) 1869 - 1943

THE CHURCH

When the Revd Joseph Marychurch Vaughan came as curate of the parish in 1865, his main task was to establish a church in the very poor area in the northern part of the parish, with a population of about 6,000. The church, with 500 sittings, was built on the cheap, at a cost of £3,500. The Bishop of London's Fund gave £1,500, the London Diocesan Church Building Society £300, the Incorporated Church Building Society £150 and Marshall's Charity £100; he had to find the rest. He was a freemason (a member of Royal Albert Lodge, and later of Asaph Lodge), and appealed for help in the Freemasons Magazine & Masonic Mirror of 1868:

iln1869

The new district of St. John, in the parish of St George-in-the-East, is situated on the borders of the London Docks, and has a poor population of 6,000 souls. Moved by a conviction of the very urgent spiritual need of the district, the working men (the bulk of whom are dock labourers, costermongers, and seafaring men) have formed themselves into a committee, and are going literally 'from house to house,' to obtain contributions to the Church Building Fund. It may be interesting to state further, that the children in the free schools have also united to help on the work, and that there are at the present time no less than 166 contributing 1/2d. a-week, while there are other labourers in the district who are obtaining contributions that vary from 1d. to 6d. a-week. For three years the missionary clergyman has carried on his work in a school-room and from house to house ; he has a Scripture-reader, a mission-woman, and a district nurse labouring with him—a free school (of which the Right Hon. the Earl of Shaftesbury is President), with 307 children on the books, and an average attendance of 117—a lending library, containing about 400 volumes of an interesting and instructive character—a penny bank, in which last year was deposited £54 9s. by 179 depositors—a soup kitchen for giving occasional dinners to the more sickly and destitute children, and for supplying the poor of the district with nutritious food during the winter months—a mother's meeting, average attendance 30—a sewing class three times a week for teaching the children to make articles of clothing for themselves—and penny readings, with the view of giving the working classes a pleasant and profitable evening, and to encourage in them a taste for intellectual pursuits. But while the above has been done, and these agencies for good are all in active operation, the committee feel that very much remains yet to be accomplished before the parochial system is thoroughly established among them. They are convinced that a church should be built; and that, when this is completed, they will then have secured for the 'labour of love' going on in their midst, that permanency which they so ardently desire.....

The Building and Working Men's Committees venture to make an earnest appeal to all who value the blessed privilege of a House consecrated to the service of prayer and praise, to assist them in the proposed work by contributing at least a shilling in postage stamps. Should, however, any be disposed to make a larger donation, cheques crossed "East London Bank" or Post-office Orders made payable at "Eastern District Post-office,'' Commercial-road, E. may be sent to the Incumbent designate, the Rev. J. M. Vaughan, 33, Nassau-place, Commercial-road, E. or will be thankfully acknowledged by any of the following gentlemen :— Rev. J. Cohen, M. A., Rесtor of St. Mary's, Whitechapel ; Mr. Henry Mosely, 9. St. George's-place, St. George-in-the-East; Rev. J. G. Pilkington, M.A., Clerical Secretary, Bishop of London's Fund, 46A Pall Mall; Rev. T. J. Rowsell. M.A., Chaplain to the Queen, Rector of St. Margaret's Lothbury; Rev. F. W. Russell, M.A., 35, St. Augustine-road, Camden-square, N.W.  Contributors of 5s. and upwards will be presented with photograph of the new church.


sjteiteThe architects were the Francis brothers Frederick John (1818-96) and Horace (1821-94), whose practice was at 38 Upper Bedford Place, Bloomsbury; Messrs Dove were the builders. The foundation stone was laid by the Bishop of London on 29 April 1868, and he consecrated the church on 12 February 1869, with the Archbishop of Canterbury present. Mr Vaughan was inducted as the first vicar. [drawing above from the Illustrated London News 20 February 1869] 


St John's was built of stock brick, with stone dressings, and consisted of a nave and aisles of five bays, the last bay of which formed the chancel. The construction of the east window suggested that a chancel extension was envisaged, but this never happened. At the south-west was the base of a tower which should have been completed with a belfry stage and a brick spire; this too was never finished, and a single bell was hung in a wooden frame on the top of the tower. Only the south side of the church was visible; it was surrounded by tenement houses.

The organ - 2 manuals, 15 speaking stops - was built by Gray and Davison in 1869, at a cost of £318. Vaughan stressed (no doubt with events at the parish church in mind) that he wanted to have a thoroughly good musical service, at the same time most carefully avoiding all extremes.


400commercialroadAs noted above, Vaughan initially lived at 33 Nassau Place, Commercial Road East, and later at 12 Commercial Place, but later the vicarage was established at 400 Commercial Road [left] - a house much later occupied by BISHOPS OF STEPNEY, including Trevor Huddleston CR and Jim Thompson. During the second world war it had been used as a hostel for bombed-out pensioners.

Near the church, in Christian Street, was London's tallest chimney at Martineau's sugar refinery which burnt down twice in the 19th century. On this site a large Board School was built in 1901. HERE is an account of Backchurch Lane, the western boundary of the parish, from the 19th century to the present day.







THE CLERGY

Joseph Marychurch Vaughan, the first incumbent, was one of nine children of a parson, John Vaughan (no relation to D.J. Vaughan's family at St Mark Whitechapel) and Elizabeth Marychurch; two of his brothers, and several other family members, were also ordained or married clergymen. After Cambridge, he trained at King's College London and served curacies in county Durham and Hove. He stayed at St John's for 16 years, ten of them as Vicar, leaving (as a contemporary commentator put it) for a lighter sphere of work, much needed after the long overstrain of mind and body, as vicar of St Thomas of Canterbury, Dodbrooke, in Devon. But he only stayed there a year, and for a further year as vicar of Englishcombe, near Bath, before returning to London in 1882 as vicar of St Nicholas Deptford, in Rochester diocese; in 1889 he went for a short time to Queensland, working in Townsville; and sadly in 1897 he fell into trouble over drinking and debts.

His successor in 1879 was George Thomas Cull Bennett (see Charles Booth archive B222 pp20-35). He was a St Bees' trainee, and had been a curate in county Durham and incumbent of Kenley, near Shrewsbury (where he was involved in a court case over a mortgage). He was musical, and one of many Victorians who wrote music for Albert Lowe's harvest hymn Holy is the seed-timeHe was a supporter of the Family Welfare Association, the CHARITY ORGANISATION SOCIETY and the East London Nursing Society, and a regular attender at meetings of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. He remained here for thirty years; a widower, in January 1902 at the age of 61 he married Louisa Nelhams (aged 43) at St John's, with his long-serving curate Charles Reeder officiating.

The 1886 religious survey of London records attendances on 24 October of 98 in the morning, and 128 in the evening.

Curates

In 1865 Vaughan had advertised in The Ecclesiastical Gazette for a curate, at a stipend of £130 a year - 'views moderate, schoolroom services'.
Among those who served as curates were


Hastings Leonard Langley (1909-19) saw St John's through the war years. He had trained at King's College and served two curacies before coming to be vicar of the parish.

When he left, Brian Edward Waud became priest in charge for a short time. He had been one of Fr Dolling's curates at the time of his death in 1902 at All Saints Poplar (where he started a boys' rowing club on the River Lea), after which he went briefly to Edinburgh; he had retired to St Mary's Clergy House in Cable Street. But the tradition of the parish was to change....

shrubbsThe penultimate vicar (1919-39) was Henry Shrubbs. He trained at Ridley Hall, Cambridge and served two curacies locally before coming here. He was involved with the Church Army, and conducted some baptisms at their  local headquarters. The parish magazine ('buses 15a, 23a and 40a, trams from Aldgate and Bloomsbury') proclaimed

Welcome to St John's
where the SERVICES are definitely Evangelical, Congregational and understandable,
where the Pure GOSPEL is preached
and where the SACRAMENTS are administered according to Apostolic simplicity
and The Order of the English Branch of the Church Catholic.
Come once - you will come always.


A similar stance was taken by Hyma Henry Redgrave, who had permission to officiate in the parish and lived in the Institute at 20 Christian Street from 1923-34. He was a Durham and King's College London graduate, and in his seventh post at St Paul Burslem set up a 'Cranmer Theological College' there, and was a protagonist for the establishment of Cranmer Hall, within St John's College Durham, as a 'Protestant Hostel', in 1909. In 1912 he had published The practical principles of Jesus: Being a practical precept for every day in the year, each precept being based on an express approval or disapproval of our Lord: with copious Scriptural references (a latter-day 'WWJD' approach!) After two more London posts, in 1937 he became the incumbent of Stow Bedon with Breccles, in Norfolk, before retiring to Hastings in 1949. His brother was the grandfather of the actor Sir Michael Regrave.

For a short time in 1935 Clifford John Nash was a curate here. He was a graduate of the evangelical Ridley College, Melbourne in Australia (from which he received a higher degree in absentia in 1944), and had served three curacies there (starting a scout troop in one parish). He came here under the terms of the 1874 Colonial Clergy Act, and lived at Pierhead House, Wapping. He returned home to become vicar of Christ Church Melton in 1937, and two years later published As in the Days of Noah: A Christian's Guide through World Chaos (Marshall Morgan & Scott).

Dudley James Milne Gray
, a Durham graduate who trained at St Augustine's College Canterbury, was curate from 1935-37, following a three year spell as a missionary in China. He went on to build up a new congregation at St Luke Leagrave in Luton.

From 1937 Frank Anderson Moss Ellis is listed as curate, but it turned out that he had not in fact been canonically ordained!

Pictured are the interior of the church in the 1930s, and three views from 1938: the corner of Fairclough and Brunswick Streets; the Beehive public house on the corner of Fairclough and Christian Streets; and the corner of Christian and Ellen Streets.

interior1930sfaircloughbrunswickstreet1938
beehiveph1938christianstreet1938

In 1938 we find the Vicar appealing for £6,000 to replace the Institute. It had once been a pub, The Comet (he describes as a gin palace in Dickens' day). The brewery from which it was leased had been good landlords, spending more on repairs than they received in rent, and thousands have benefitted by the warm, hearty, high-toned hospitality...The building has seen rough times during the training and taming of Whitechapel youth, but it has sent out into life stalwart saints. But today the old building literally rocks under the weight of its human burden, and its sighs are heard in creaking floors and windows. What was now needed, he said, was a new building to house the social, educational, physical and religious organisations so necessary in such a congested parish as St John's. Hundreds of the youth hang about sordid gloomy streets and courts during the dark evenings, waiting for mischief and too often find it; when a bright Institute offering healthy scope for their ever-increasing lesiure hours would certainly draw a considerable proportion and thus save money from the pitfalls confronting them on every side

Shrubbs' other problem, as he saw it, was the difficulty of keeping Sunday in what was then a Jewish-majority parish (there were several SYNAGOGUES close by, and HESSEL STREET MARKET), where Sunday is a busier day than the ordinary Saturday elsewhere - though he hoped that the 1936 Shops (Sunday Trading Restriction) Act, passed amidst controversy, would help matters. And he was cheered by a recent confirmation of 36 lads and maidens from the parish, whose preparation was not through orderly classes, as in the suburbs, but often started over frying bacon and eggs or kippers (one in the eye for his Jewish neighbours!) - decisions for Christ are come to under an alley lamp-post. 

A few Muslims were also beginning to live in the parish. In the baptism registers for the 1930s are several children with Asian fathers and English mothers (for example, 'Asia, daughter of Mohammed and Mabel Ali'). This table shows the number of baptisms and weddings each year throughout the church's history. In the early part of the 20th century, there were often several weddings on Christmas Day.


baptisms

weddings


baptisms

weddings


baptisms

weddings

1870

25

1

1895

94

58

1920

33

26

1871

76

5

1896

78

57

1921

30

23

1872

27

3

1897

72

49

1922

32

14

1873

114

2

1898

78

51

1923

27

18

1874

34

6

1899

54

59

1924

32

9

1875

46

2

1900

60

61

1925

33

18

1876

20

7

1901

46

41

1926

37

19

1877

15

6

1902

60

42

1927

30

22

1878

13

4

1903

58

42

1928

23

14

1879

28

25

1904

55

30

1929

23

18

1880

127

15

1905

42

57

1930

31

11

1881

107

26

1906

44

60

1931

24

9

1882

139

16

1907

42

47

1932

25

10

1883

114

21

1908

56

66

1933

25

9

1884

148

27

1909

55

76

1934

20

9

1885

171

18

1910

66

61

1935

32

21

1886

135

40

1911

38

64

1936

31

28

1887

128

34

1912

57

44

1937

40

17

1888

132

29

1913

42

48

1938

29

13

1889

131

53

1914

36

52

1939

25

10

1890

111

32

1915

42

64

1940

22

17

1891

99

57

1916

40

40

1941

12

5

1892

94

38

1917

18

8

1942

9

3

1893

84

48

1918

15

20

1943

3

2

1894

72

57

1919

17

17

1944


1







1945


5




FINAL DAYS

sjeiteIn the event, the Second World War came. Henry Shrubbs left in 1939 for Stanstead Abbots, in St Alban's diocese, and in 1940 Hubert Alfred Robins became the last Vicar, having served two local curacies. He left in 1943 when local clergy were centred on St George-in-the-East, to become vicar of St Erkenwald, Southend, and then to two parishes in Devon (where he was briefly rural dean) before retiring to Cornwall in 1968.


When the church closed in 1943 it was used as a store for furnishings from bomb-damaged churches (the eventual disposal of these items, at the expense of the East End, makes an interesting story). By 1960 the building was in a terrible state; vandals had broken in and smashed all the furniture and wrecked most of the windows; even the stone pulpit was broken. The floor was littered with old hymnbooks and bibles, parish magazines and marble wall-monuments from St Peter Regent Square. Locals had dumped mouldering settees and chairs. The diocesan authorities had attempted to prevent entry by overturning the stone font against the main door, but to no avail. The building was demolished in 1964.

Regeneration for this part of the parish is promised, in the shape of a major scheme for the site of the former Bishop Challoner School, on which work has begun.

No Trees in the Street
A 1959 film, rated as sincere but saccharine, featuring Ronald Howard, Stanley Holloway, David Hemmings, Sylvia Sims, Melvyn Hayes and Herbert Lom: a retired policeman who shows a young criminal how a similar lad went astray twenty years previously. Some shots were filmed locally - on the left are stills of Hemmings and Howard outside the church entrance in Golding Street, and round the corner outside Delafield House and Drewett House in Burslem Street, anf on the right contemporary pictures (now with trees!) of these spots.
notreesinthestreet5

notreesinthestreetnotreesinthestreet2
notreesinthestreet3notreesinthestreet4



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